Our obsession with fast fashion reveals more than the latest trend
Aside from perhaps a few hits of dopamine, it’s no secret that fast fashion is bad for us. In April, the Business of Fashion (@bof) posted some shocking statistics on Shein, the until recently unheard of Chinese company founded by Chris Xu. In the last few years, Shein has exploded onto the social media scene, with influencers around the globe flaunting multiple pieces from the enterprise. The data revealed that the company pumped out a whopping 314,877 new styles last year, seventeen times more than Boohoo, and averaging over 800 new styles every single day. In a world obsessed with online appearances, it’s hard not to be sucked into an ever-revolving door of fashion and style that is so accessible.
But, as we all know, looks come at a far higher cost than the £5.99 price tag. With the world’s clothing industry producing more emissions than international plane travel and shipping combined, and the average number of times items are worn decreasing by 36%, the environmental cost of a TikTok haul is more than many of us can comprehend. If production continues at the current rate, by the end of the decade it is estimated that the industry will overshoot the 1.5 degree pathway by 50%, thereby increasing the irreversible effects of climate change.
There is also a human cost to our fast fashion. Currently, 93% of fashion retailers don’t pay their garment workers a living wage which becomes even more urgent as the cost of living crisis explodes around us. Additionally, Shein has had a number of controversies, including workers on 75-hour weeks and hazardous working environments. Although the company makes claims about fair pay and using recyclable materials on its website, the lack of transparency and proof indicates that these are likely empty words. By simply paying lip service to social issues, Shein is attempting to woke-wash its dubious practises.
It is no wonder that eco-bloggers are calling on us, as consumers, to shun fast fashion and to invest in sustainable or second-hand clothing. Without demand, these companies couldn’t exist.
However, as with most issues, there is a dichotomy between the ideal and the reality, which was starkly highlighted in April 2021. When Primark reopened its doors after a long lockdown closure, customers flocked to the streets and queues curled around blocks. Cue derision and laughter from those who scoffed at those desperate for the latest ‘gorpcore’ must-have. There was no thought for children who had put up with too-small clothes for the past 12 months, for individuals who had fluctuated in weight significantly due to governmental measures, for those who had lost their jobs for reasons outside of their control. When we live in a world where the minimum wage is £9.50 but energy prices have increased by 80%, it is impossible to expect people to shun the Primarks of the world.
I didn’t understand the difficulty of living sustainably until I tried it. In January 2021 I made a resolution to only buy second-hand or sustainable clothes. For the most part I succeeded and, aside from the occasional panic buy, have stuck to this commitment in 2022. But the reason that I could do this without too much inconvenience is because of my privilege. I am straight-sized, meaning there will always be something that fits me in every shop I walk into. I live in Brighton, where charity and vintage shops are on every corner. I have no dependents and earn a comfortable salary, so I have free weekends and disposable income. Living sustainably takes time, effort, and money. It is simply not achievable for many people to buy clothes sustainably, and it is time we addressed the root cause of this. Preaching at consumers to ‘do better’ and use alternative vendors does nothing when sustainable fashion costs exponentially more than fast fashion garments. Without higher minimum wage, better support for families, and a culture shift within our influencer-obsessed society, the dream of leaving Shein and its ilk behind us is very far away.
There is no one solution to all this. Those of us who are privileged enough to be able to change our shopping habits must do so, unequivocally and immediately. Social media has a lot to answer for, and the influencer culture must address its perpetuation of constant micro-trends. And crucially, fashion companies must be held to account for their gross exploitation of people and the planet for profit. From organisations such as By Rotation, to rent your next glamorous outfit, through to Vinted, for browsing second-hand clothes from the comfort of your sofa, there is proof that the industry can be reshaped with sustainability at its centre. However, to ignore the wider societal implications highlighted by our obsession with fast fashion will only impede this process of change.
Sources:
https://ecothes.com/blog/fast-fashion-statistics
https://www.mirror.co.uk/money/huge-primark-queues-shops-reopen-23896406
https://brightly.eco/shein-sustainability/
https://startuptalky.com/shein-success-story/
https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-59245708
https://commonslibrary.parliament.uk/research-briefings/cbp-9491/
Purpose Union is a specialist social purpose strategy firm that works with clients to develop compelling arguments, build powerful coalitions, and devise winning campaigns to change the world for good.
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